Renting with a rabbit: how to set up your flat without losing your deposit
A rabbit given the run of a rented flat mainly puts three things at risk: chewed skirting boards and furniture legs, flooring marked by claws or urine, and severed electrical cables. A study by Rooney, Blackwell, Mullan, Saunders, Baker, Hill, Sales and Owen, published in 2014 in BMC Research Notes on the English pet rabbit population, found that a significant share of rabbits lived in a space that was too small or poorly suited to their natural need to gnaw and move around, which mechanically raises the risk of damage when the space isn't set up properly (study on Google Scholar). The basics of rabbit housing are gathered in our rabbit bedding and habitat section.
How can flooring and skirting boards be protected?
Clear rigid plastic baseboard guards, fitted without drilling using quality double-sided tape, prevent most chewing marks along the base of the walls; our guide to protecting baseboards and furniture from chewing covers models that come off cleanly at the end of the tenancy. A thick rug laid over the flooring in the rabbit's main living area also limits the micro-scratches that build up from repeated movement and small hops.
How can cables be secured without hiding them behind a wall-mounted unit?
Split conduit or removable cable covers, simply clipped or laid on the floor, protect effectively without needing any drilling or permanent fixing into the flat's walls. Our article on protecting electrical cables covers solutions that come apart easily if a move is on the horizon.
Which setup leaves the fewest marks on the floor?
A modular pen set up without fixings, rather than a screwed-down cage or a space marked out with nails, keeps the rabbit contained to a given zone without leaving holes or marks once taken down. Choosing a removable floor liner under the litter, such as a thin tarp or a dedicated mat, also guards against urine stains that can leave a lasting mark on untreated flooring.
What's worth checking before the move-out inspection?
Gradually removing the protective fittings in the weeks before moving out makes it possible to spot any marks still visible and deal with them before the landlord's visit, rather than dismantling everything the day before. A thorough clean of the areas the rabbit used most, with a product that's safe even if it stays in place until the very end, rounds out this check usefully.
- Removable baseboard guards: fitted without drilling, they come off cleanly at the end of the tenancy.
- Clipped cable covers: effective protection without any permanent wall fixing.
- Unfixed pen and removable floor liner: limit lasting marks and stains.
- Gradual removal before the inspection: catches and fixes any marks still visible.
Letting the landlord know about the pet, where the tenancy agreement requires it, also avoids disputes that have nothing to do with the equipment used but can needlessly complicate an otherwise well-prepared move-out.
Frequently asked questions
Does keeping a rabbit caged rather than free-roaming remove all risk to the flat?
It reduces the risk of damage but not the need for daily exercise: a rabbit that never leaves its cage gets bored and more easily develops other problem behaviours, including toward its own equipment.
Can a landlord refuse a rabbit in a furnished flat?
It depends on the tenancy agreement's terms; without a clause explicitly banning pets, a small animal like a rabbit is generally tolerated, but it's worth checking the contract before moving one in.
Do rabbit urine stains soak into flooring?
Yes, if left uncleaned for a long time, especially on unsealed flooring; prompt cleaning and a protective liner under the litter noticeably reduce this risk.
This guide is part of Planète Pets’s Rabbits universe. Our advice is general in nature: for any health concern, your veterinarian remains the only reference.