How to hold and carry a rabbit without hurting it: the right grip
Published by Planète Pets · managing editor: Clément Lacaille · how our guides are written
Unlike a cat or a dog, a rabbit combines a lightweight skeleton — barely 7 to 8% of its body mass, versus roughly 12 to 13% in a cat — with extremely powerful hindquarters built for fleeing. Lifted without support for the hind end, a panicking rabbit can struggle with enough force to fracture its own spine. A landmark review by Bradbury and Dickens, published in 2016 in the Journal of Small Animal Practice, documented that around 60% of pet rabbits struggle when lifted in an unsuitable way — a figure that explains how common handling injuries are in veterinary practice (see the study). Everyday health pointers are covered in our rabbit care and grooming section.
Contents · 4 sections
The two-handed grip, every time
One hand slides under the chest, just behind the front legs, while the other firmly supports the hindquarters and back legs. The rabbit is then drawn in against the handler's body, never held at arm's length: that close contact reduces its sense of falling and limits panicked movement. Never grab a rabbit by the ears or by loose back skin alone — grips still used out of habit from other species are a direct cause of many lumbar fractures.
Practice low, not up high
With a rabbit unused to being carried, it's best to practice sitting on the floor or near a low sofa: a fall of a few centimetres is harmless, whereas a fall from an adult's arms while standing can be fatal. Wrapping a towel around the body — the "rabbit burrito" technique — helps contain an agitated rabbit during a quick procedure (nail trim, exam) without resorting to force; our guide to rabbit nail clippers covers this gentle restraint.
Setting the rabbit down safely
The way down matters as much as the grip: crouch or bend to set the rabbit as close to the ground as possible rather than letting it jump from your arms, a move that can startle and unbalance it mid-leap. A rabbit that stiffens, scratches actively or growls while being carried should be set down without delay rather than held by force.
- Always two hands: chest supported at the front, hindquarters supported at the back.
- Never by the ears or loose back skin alone: a direct risk of spinal fracture.
- Held against the body, never at arm's length: less falling sensation, less panic.
- Practice on the floor with a rabbit unused to handling, never up high at first.
A rabbit that remains generally reluctant to be carried isn't unusual: many individuals tolerate handling without ever enjoying it. Our article on warning signs before a bite helps spot the moment it's better to put the animal back down.
Frequently asked questions
Should you force a reluctant rabbit to be carried?
No: it's better to stay on the floor and come to the rabbit's level for care that doesn't require lifting, reserving carrying for genuinely necessary situations (transport, exam).
Does the "rabbit burrito" stress the animal?
Done properly, wrapping in a towel is more reassuring than stressful: it limits sudden movement without restricting breathing.
Can a child carry a rabbit alone?
Not without direct supervision: an adult rabbit's weight and its potential panic reaction often exceed a young child's ability to keep control.
See it in the Planète Pets shop: Wooden hay rack with tray for rabbit, guinea pig and chinchilla (€21.90) · the whole shop
This guide is part of Planète Pets’s Rabbits universe. Our advice is general in nature: for any health concern, your veterinarian remains the only reference.
